Please Visit the Desert, but Come Prepared

Every winter an incredible number of folks come to the desert in RVs, obviously enticed by the tropical climate. It is a wonderful place to be in the winter when the northern two-thirds of the continent are covered with ice and snow. Quite simply, sunbathing is usually more fun than snow shoveling. Unfortunately, a lot of people are unprepared for the different challenges they will face. Here are a few tips that might prove beneficial if you decide to sunbathe rather than shovel snow, something I have vowed to never do again along with digging another Desoto out of a snow drift. That is not fun to me anymore.

Dressing for the warm days is obvious, but do not leave all the sweaters and jackets at home. Evenings become very cool, especially when there is no cloud cover and the humidity is low.

That low humidity is something to be prepared for, too. Dehydration can be a problem even in winter. Skin, lips, eyes and brain cells all dry out and get darned uncomfortable. Moisturizer, lip balm, eye drops and bottled water are the cures. It is amazing how fast these things can occur and how much they can affect your fun.

If you have sensitive skin, do not forget the sunblock. They say SPF 40 will do the trick unless you are Irish, in which case you might try SPF 1 thousand or a HazMat suit. The sun is much more direct because of the low latitude, which also brings to mind a wide-brimmed hat.

Two other things are worth mentioning, salt and alcohol. No, not the salt on the rim of your marguerita glass. A small salty snack will help retain body moisture, keeping you hydrated. Alcohol will dehydrate your body.\

There is also the possibility of rain, especially in December or January.  Normally winter rains are more like drizzles, but there is the likelihood of a good drenching downpour that will turn the dry ground on which you stand into a shallow pond within minutes. A breathable, waterproof, lightweight rain parka is your friend.

It is very unusual, but I have seen some pretty good size hail once or twice. If you would happen to get caught in a sudden hail storm, the best advice I have is, run.

Because of the winter rains that occur in the mountains it is advisable to keep an eye on their summits if you are rock hounding in a wash (dry stream bed). The washes around here roughly four feet deep and will fill to the top with a torrent of fast moving water that would be a heck of a good kayak run, but lousy for body surfing.

Washes are also where cute little ground squirrels make their homes and where not so cute rattlesnakes hunt them. Be careful. Rattlesnakes hibernate after the first night frost and come back out when nights are consistently above sixty-degrees, usually in March.  However, that is not a hard and fast rule, so always be careful.

A lot of visitors have fluffy little dogs. Back home it might be just fine to let Fluffy run loose. If you happen to really like that dog and are hoping to take it home, the desert is no place for her to play. Remember, this is an alien world to Fluffy. She doesn’t understand what cacti needles are and that some are barbed. A cactus will not chase her, but there are plenty of things that will. There are snakes, scorpions, coyotes, feral dogs and most every desert area has a resident bobcat and Mountain lion. Those last two spell Shih Tzu, S-U-S-H-I.  As long as Fluffy is with you, on a leash, the chances of an encounter are slim to none.

Here is an extra tidbit. Rattlesnakes rarely strike at a person, but if it happens do not jump back, away from the snake. Jump to the side. Snakes strike in a straight line and will miss a good side jump, you hope. The most effective way to deal with any poisonous snake is distance.

However, there is good news, we do not have tigers.

To keep the other pesky little critters out of your RV use Bounce dryer sheets for rodents, moth balls for snakes and forget about kitchen cleanser to repel ants, that is a myth. There are products that work, like Green Light.

A couple things that may have captured your attention on the news are the border problem and that Arizonans are allowed to carry guns. I will not lie, a border problem does exist and the border areas can be very dangerous. Quartzsite is one hundred miles from the border and the only aliens we see are short, green and only looking for a phone, anyway. The idea that Arizona is unsafe is absurd unless you travel on or very close to the border. Besides, over ninety percent of the Mexicans who venture into Arizona are only looking for jobs.

Do not be one of those reactive people who allow radical news stories to spoil your fun. Secondly, about the right to carry guns. It is doubtful that a visitor will ever see someone totin’ a shootin’ iron. I do not actually know anyone who carries a gun except when hiking in the desert or remote mountain areas. So, neither of those things are cause to worry about.

There is one thing that should be on the worry list, wind. If you are tired of the color of the awning on the RV and have very good insurance, leave it down and trot off to town. On any given day Mother Nature might see fit to remove it. Winds that high are uncommon, but it is kind of like waxing the car and making it rain. The day you forget to put the awning up is the day it will get windy. A good awning accessory is the anti-flap clip. Two on each end will keep the awning from fluttering in a breeze and extend the life of the awning. Fluttering tatters the edges. Most RV stores and Wal-Marts have them.

This Desert Southwest is a big area with lots of terrific places to visit and your visit will be much more pleasurable if you come prepared.

 

*If you would like to see a ‘where to go in Quartzsite’ article, post your request and I will gladly write it.

The Very Uncommon, Common Raven

Of the many species of ravens throughout the world the one most common in the western United States is the Common raven (Corvus corax), which is anything but common. This is an amazing bird.

One winter while camping at La Paz County Campground in Arizona I encountered the most entertaining bird I have ever met, a raven whom I named Whistler. He absolutely astounded me with his ability to mimic. Although, it was not words that Whistler specialized in mimicking.

As I sat enjoying a delightful view of the Colorado River one afternoon the most annoying sound known to man broke through my serenity, the various wails of a car alarm. The alarm went through every sound, whoops, whistles, wah-wahs, and numerous siren-like screams, and after it had gone through its entire repertoire it started all over again. After daydreaming about multiple methods of shutting it off – some involving explosives or a canon – I got up and turned toward the parking lot to see what horrible machine had invaded my wonderfully quiet afternoon. It took a minute before I actually believed the sight before me. A huge raven, sitting at the edge of the parking area was imitating a car alarm, sound by sound, in the correct order I had heard many times before, when performed by an actual car alarm.

 

 

My annoyance faded into amazement and a chuckle slipped through my lips. The bombastic bird was only about fifty feet away and upon approaching him, he sat there unafraid and with a definite air of pride in his accomplishment. Speaking slowly, I addressed the aping avian with a simple, but stern, “Shut up.” He did, then cocked his head and looked at me in a way that might suggest a challenge. His beak opened slightly and a shrill whistle began forming in his throat. “Ah-ah!” I scolded and his beak clapped shut like a screen door with a strong spring. He glared. I pointed at him. He jerked his head around and took a couple awkward steps, almost to convey embarrassment. After softly telling him he was a good bird I returned to camp.

Over the next week Whistler visited me every day. I would talk to him. He would listen and nod like an uninterested child, and once he pooped on the picnic table, but never imitated the alarm again.

 

Most everyone has seen crows and ravens, though a lot of people do not know how to tell them apart. To start with, ravens are larger, but it is in flight that they are most easily identified.  Crows have rounded wings and a squarish tail. Ravens have pointed wings and a long, wedge shaped tail. Also, ravens will soar; crows will not soar. Ravens mate for life, an attribute we humans could benefit from, and they are omnivores, Eatus anythingus, even carrion, which is their equivalent to sushi, but has to be tastier.

 

 

Ten Things to Never Do In the Desert

Assume the ground is solid. You might find yourself unexpectedly dropping in on a family of prairie dogs or rattlesnakes.

Picnic in a wash. One good thunderstorm in the mountains and you will be body surfing with lizards.

Touch anything that is crawling, slithering, lives under a rock or exhibits anything resembling a stinger. Almost everything in the desert either bites, sticks or stings.

Walk backwards when you are not wearing pants. By the way, why are you not wearing pants?

Use plant leaves as emergency toilet paper if you are not absolutely sure it is mullein. Some leaves have hair thin, clear spines that would ruin one of Beethoven’s movements.

Try to show one of the adorable wild burros a little love. If biting, kicking or stepping on your foot does not deter you, consider the fact that the burro might like it a little too much and return your affection.

Ask directions from anyone with leathery skin, a long beard and dressed like prospector, be it male, female or uncertain. They amuse themselves by watching sand blow and messing with tourists.

Look at something in the distance and decide you can walk to it in a couple hours. It will be much farther than you think. Just remember the pickle Columbus got himself into thinking the Far East was just over the horizon.

 

Large leaves are mullein.

Use twigs from a creosote bush to start a campfire. Dead roots are okay, but creosote burns as a thick, black, stinky smoke that makes a coal fire seem pleasant and your clothes tar pit fresh.

Leave your group at night with the parting words, “I’ll be right back.” No, wait, that is a horror movie rule. In the desert, just never leave your group at night.

I give you the bird

Almost every naturalist has a favorite bird. The famous John Muir preferred the American dipper. It is a very pretty, active, fun bird to watch. However, my choice is the Dark-eyed junco (Junco hyemalis).  For one thing, Juncos can be found almost everywhere. They are Canadian-American migrators, living in conifer and hardwood forests up to 11,000 feet. No matter where I camp in the western United States Juncos are almost always there like little friends, familiar and always welcome.

The Junco is a small sparrow of 6 inches with dark eyes, spectacular white tail feathers and a rusty patch on their back. In flight they appear as a streak with a flash of white tail. What makes them really special to a camper is that they will share your campsite as if they belong there. Actually, they do.

I cannot count the number of times while sitting in camp that it suddenly becomes apparent that there are several little Juncos hopping all around me with absolutely no regard to my presence. They feed on the ground in forest litter, gathering seeds and plant material until spotting a tasty looking insect on a tree trunk, which they will jump for. I can totally understand that behavior. Place a succulently sautéed shrimp just above my reach and you can bet I will jump for it.

Their most endearing trait is the way one will look at you, as if to be studying the situation, tilting its head from side to side while you talk to it, or softly whistle a trilling note. If you make them feel welcome and safe, Juncos will almost act like little camp pets, hopping all over the place, trilling and foraging.

The female builds a small nest, usually on the ground, which does not seem like a very good idea, but I never said they are particularly smart birds, just cute and fun to watch.

It has always struck me funny when someone says that another person “eats like a bird,” as a compliment, meaning they are a light eater. Nothing could be farther from the truth. Birds eat an incredible amount of food. Flying is a very taxing activity requiring a large volume of calories. If you eat like a bird you are packing it away in great quantities and you might want to check your chin for Crispy Crème donut powder.

As tempting as it might be, do not feed our little friends. Their system is not accustomed to our processed foods. Or, they could turn into little hobos.

If you like watching birds, but never seem to get close enough to be able to watch them for any amount of time, the first thing people think of is binoculars. Did you know there are binoculars made especially for birding? Oddly enough they are called ‘birding binoculars.’ They are usually about 10-power and will focus on an object much closer than regular binoculars. Some are even waterproof. This could come in handy if you are watching a bird and the sprinklers come on or you trip and fall in the birdbath.

Well, the sun has just gone down and I think I’ll go out and watch for, what else,  Nighthawks.

Mother Knows Best by Desert Dave

If there is one thing nature has taught me well it is that humankind is not the end-all of knowledge in the wild. We might know how to build a computer, but a coral reef or even a single-celled Paramecium is completely beyond our capability. Yet, we attempt to assert our control over nature. We feel that our superior brains give us the right to subjugate all of what we consider to be lesser things. Our greatest asset, it could be said, is ego. There certainly is something wonderful in the idea that we can accomplish great feats simply because we believe we can. Of that I am certain. I am also certain that there are times when faced with the possibility of what we can, does not mean that we should.

Case in point; great minds in the state of Oregon decided that rivers and streams would be much more alluring to tourists if they were “neater.” To accomplish this they sent out work crews to clean the dead-fall, snags and otherwise ‘unattractive’ material from their waterways to give them a manicured appearance. How delightful. Actually, how deadly. After removing the living environments of the fish and amphibians, which in turn altered the populations of arthropods and local fauna. Everything from snails and gnats to riparian plants were affected in a very negative way. Had these great minds inquired of a wildlife biologist they would have known that wild habitats must remain wild. In short, Mother Nature knows best.

Teddy Roosevelt certainly knew this. Though he was an avid hunter and sportsman he was also a revered conservationist. Most recently Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger of California set aside a huge area of the eastern slope of the Sierra as protected, meaning it may not be developed for commercial use. The Governor said this was his gift to the people of California. Not all the people were thrilled with their gift. Some of them were mapping out areas for condos, shopping malls and overpriced resorts.

By now you have most certainly pegged me as a tree hugging liberal. I have hugged a certain pine to enjoy the aroma of fresh vanilla, but a liberal, or Earth First fanatic I am not. What I am is a lover of the natural world. It is precious.

There is a lady I admire, whom I will not identify because her radical approach to landscaping brought her much trouble. She lived in a suburban neighborhood, quite civilized and well-trimmed. To conform to her neighbors standards she kept her front yard covered in mown lawn with a few tasteful flowers. The backyard was a different story. There she created a completely natural environment of wildflowers, tall grasses and native shrubs. These wonderful environs attracted song birds, hummingbirds, small mammals like rabbits and squirrels, and even a beautiful red fox. Her neighbors were outraged. Apparently nature has no place in the burbs. They sued, won, and so she had to destroy it all. Just guessing, but the people who hated her natural environment so are probably avid recyclers.

The point is, do not ever think that because you are human you inherently understand the entire world around you. You know how to tie your shoes. You know how to look both ways before crossing a street. Mother Nature knows how to make a tree and build a mountain.

Face it, Mother really does know best.

Super moon

This phase of the moon is called a “Supermoon,” first named by astrologer Richard Nolle in 1979. It occurs when a full or new moon phase happens during perigee (when the moon is closest to the Earth). The technical name is perigee-syzygy, when the moon appears 12% larger and 30% brighter than a typical full moon. The resulting, slightly stronger tide is a “perigean spring tide.” The best time for viewing is just after sunset when the moon is low in the sky.

Photos were taken with my Nikon on 60 power. Photos taken May 6, 2012.

Serving the Summer

         As you know by now I live in the Arizona desert. After growing up in the Appalachians this is quite a change. Back there we had humidity and mosquitos. Here we have dry heat and rattlesnakes.  I would much rather be bitten by a mosquito than a rattlesnake, but humidity is not my friend, it makes my hair frizz and fills body crevices with sweat. That is very unattractive.

         No matter where you are you have to deal with Mother Nature unless you live in a bubble or Los Angeles, but that is another story. In the desert it is absolutely necessary to understand the effects of the sun. This is low latitude living and must be dealt with in earnest.

         The sun is strong at this latitude. A person can be perfectly comfortable in the shade, move into the sun and feel like it is searing the flesh off the bones. In technical, meteorological terms this is known as “damn hot.” What people who are not desert dwellers have to come to terms with is just how destructive this force can be.

         As a result of my writing and desert research I have taken up residence in the desert in an old-fashioned American trailer park, which is how most people live here. I am not talking about a mobile home park with seventy foot doublewides, I am talking about a park where you tow in your trailer, park it and stay as long as you want or until the wheels fall off. I even have a T-shirt with a “Quartzsite Trailer Trash” monogram. The point is, we live in the desert and love it, but summer produces many challenges.

         This is an example. It was mid-morning and I was out on the patio sweeping when I noticed that the thermometer, which is in the shade, read 114⁰f. I was not really hot until I saw that. Then I thought ‘go inside, fool’ and so I did.

         During most summers I leave for the high country to fish, study wildlife and enjoy the outdoors. When I do, my RV stays in the park. As such, it must be summarized to withstand the destructive forces of extreme heat and UV light.

         Summerizing goes like this. The entire unit must be covered with a heavy duty, UV resistant cover, which includes covering the wheels. It is kind of like wrapping a candy bar so it will not melt. This is one reason to remain in good stead with ones neighbors. It cannot be done alone, so good relations and a six-pack are essential. If you actually like your neighbors this is the perfect opportunity for a barbeque and a little pickin’ and grinnin’. Here in Arizona we look for any opportunity to break out the guitars and fiddles.

         A man from the city once asked me what the difference is between a fiddle and a violin. I answered, “About $2 thousand.” A few years ago I met an 86 year old man who not only was still a fiddler, but still made custom fiddles by hand. He had known and written songs for the great Hank Williams. Spending an evening talking and picking with him was one I will never forget. By the way, his fiddle was blue and of his own design.

         Music plays a big part around the campfire. And you never know who you might end up pickin’ and grinnin’ with, but back to the task at hand.

         After the RV is wrapped it is time to protect the interior. Obviously the front cover is left loose for easy entry. With a bottle of Old English and a clean rag every wooden surface needs a good cleaning and protecting. If that sounds like fun, please contact me, I need a maid. Now the entire place must be emptied of all bottles and liquid containers. Why? Have you ever seen a bottle of bleach or toilet cleaner explode? Trust me; the smell is worse than a garlic laden ‘Dutch oven’ and some of you ladies know what I am talking about. The heat inside the unit will melt or cause anything vulnerable to explode. That is why anything that might melt or be disfigured by heat must be moved to the floor or North Dakota.

         Because RVs have holding tanks for gray (water used for washing) and black (septic tank) water it is necessary to fill the tanks with fresh water to keep them from bursting open. A split gray water tank is expensive to replace. An exploded black water tank is …, well, just imagine the feces hitting the fan and then lying there in the sun for a couple months.

         Another stinky prospect is the refrigerator. It must be defrosted and the door left open with crumpled newspaper inside to absorb moisture and deter mildew.

         The last chore is that of filling water bottles. In order to hydrate the interior so everything does not split, crack and burst open it is necessary to fill containers with water and place them throughout the unit with the lids off to hydrate the air. The sinks and bath tub must also be filled for the same reason.

         You are now ready to leave for the summer with the peace of mind that if a 110mph desert windstorm does not roll the unit over you just might return to a livable RV or trailer. Best of luck.

Those Who Walked Before

This ruin is one of the most impressive masses of aboriginal masonry. It is visible for many miles, and from a distance resembles an old castle as it looms above the plain.

They were barefoot and in sandals, walking over the hot desert sand and rock, living as part of their environment rather than opposed to it, seeing the beauty of a virgin land, pioneering a new way of life.

They were an ancient people of Arizona, the Sinagua.

Sinagua is a combination of two Spanish words: sin = without, agua = water. This is the first clue to how they lived.

They were part of the Anasazi nation, ancients of the modern Hopi, which also included the Cohonina and Kayenta people.

Wukoki is actually a Hopi word meaning “big house.” For a closer look into their lives we are going to visit Wukoki National Monument, the ruins of a Sinaguan village, just northeast of Flagstaff, Arizona.

Arizona was the last of the contiguous states admitted to the union on February 14, 1912.

A century seems like a very long time. Yet, here we are. The Sinagua culture began around 500 AD and continued until circa 1250 AD, over seven times longer than Arizona has been a state. Wow, I feel younger already.

The early years of desert survival were very difficult for these people. Rainfall was less than 12 inches a year hindering agriculture and the most plentiful game was rabbit. They ate a lot of cute little bunnies and used their fur for clothing.

Unfortunately, bunny brisket is so low in fat that it provides very little nutrition. As a survival food, rabbit is at the bottom of the list.

Also, naturally occurring edible vegetation is at a premium here and ground water is almost non-existent. They learned to recycle and contain rain water using brilliant strategies. Had it not been for the intervention of Mother Nature, these people might have left the area much sooner than they did. Then Mother came to the rescue.

An interesting, if not catastrophic, natural event occurred in the 11^th century that brought over two- thousand people to the region – the eruption of the Sunset Crater volcano.

A volcanic eruption is not normally a good thing, but this one benefitted the native population in a dramatic way.

Volcanic ash spread over the region enhancing the soil with potassium and nitrogen making it much more fertile for agriculture. The ash also caused the soil to be able to hold moisture better.

Corn, beans and squash were now much easier to grow and did not require irrigation. This desolate area rose up into a grand farming community by the hands of these magnificently innovative people.

The village was constructed as individual buildings made from Moenkopi sandstone. The reddish color of the sandstone is due to iron minerals. This is a very old formation, about 240 million years old, deposited during the early to middle Triassic Period, the time of dinosaurs.

It would be a good guess that the Tyrannosaurus is the most popular of all dinosaurs. Sad to say it did not exist during the Triassic Period, but much later in the Maastrichtian Age of the late Cretaceous Period. And yes, it will be on the test.

Unlike the dinosaurs that did roam the area and became extinct about 65 million years ago, the Hopi is still a strong and vibrant nation occupying 2,536 square miles of north-eastern Arizona with a population of almost seven thousand people.

Heritage and tradition are an important part of their lives and so members of the Bear, Sand, Lizard, Rattlesnake, Water, Snow, and Katsina Clans return to this ancient area periodically to enrich their personal understanding of their clan history.

Part of Hopi history involves a sacred artifact in the Four Corners area called Prophesy Rock. Hopi, Thomas Banyacya was charged with its care. The rock carvings tell a story not only of the past, but of the future and warn of the end of all life that does not follow the spiritual path by the “purification of fire.” Oddly enough, this has been interpreted to happen in late 2012, which coincides with predictions by the Maya calendar.

That said you could choose to ignore the warning as common myth and folklore or find a more spiritual path in your life.

Somewhere I read that a spiritual path is lined with flowers, but a non-spiritual path is lined with vipers.  I would much rather look down and see flowers, a far more beautiful sight. The eye of the beholder is, as they say, the true test of beauty.

Upon viewing the photos of Wukoki a person can have many reactions ranging from being awed by its simplistic beauty to wondering how people could live in such primitive conditions.

After all, there was no air conditioning, electricity, city water and sewer, comfortable furnishings and modern appliances. Very true, but in their world they had a crucial element of survival, the absolute best of housing.

To look at the stone buildings a modern engineer would marvel at the precise angles, the fitting of components and the ability of these structures to provide pleasant, dry conditions during most any weather.

During summer the thick walls and roofs insolate and cool the interior to a pleasing temperature and during winter a small fire is all that is needed to provide cozy warmth.

Adobe and rock structures of the Pueblo people are probably the most eco-friendly, low energy use, highly efficient buildings ever designed.

These structures are called ruins. That does not seem a befitting epitaph. It might be more accurate and agreeable to refer to them as remains.

There are many such remains in the desert southwest. If you visit them I can guarantee two things, a new respect for their beauty and for those who walked these paths before you.

Daytime at the Oasis

            The two-lane blacktop is a perfectly straight line in front and behind me. On either side is an expense of Lunar-like terrain, brown and tan, strewn with boulders, unusual rock formations, creosote, sage, and craggy mountains along every horizon. But there in the distance, just to the right, a glimmer of green. The tops of Tamarisk trees towering above everything around them, their delicate branches luffing in the breeze are like a neon sign in the desert that reads “oasis ahead.”


            Most people think of a desert as being totally arid with only an oasis or two every couple hundred miles. Some deserts are, but not the Sonoran desert of the American Southwest. It is the lushest of all four desert types in the Southwest. Here there are rivers, streams and lakes. So what makes it a desert? Because the Sierra Nevada and Coastal Ranges capture the moisture moving east from the Pacific Ocean, the areas just beyond the Eastern slopes get as little as two inches of rain per year, but here is the rub.

The Southwestern deserts are almost completely surrounded by mountains, so run-off brings enough moisture to the desert areas to create isolated, relatively wet environments. In Arizona there is a summer storm season called the Monsoon season. Torrential rains, though short-lived, provide most of moisture for the year. Also, throughout the world most deserts are close to 30⁰ of latitude, called the Horse Latitudes; the 31⁰ Latitude line runs right throughSouthern Arizona. To refrain from getting too technical, geologists classify deserts based on Climate, topography, soil type and other factors, and that is as far as we need to examine the subject. It really is a desert and really does have water.

           Arizonahas four main rivers: the Colorado River on the western border and across the northern mountains, the Gila River originating inNew Mexico, theRio Grandealong the southern border and the Salt River which runs throughPhoenix.

            There are lakes that range from immense, like Powell and Meade, down to ponds of only a few acres with average depths less than fifteen feet.

            In my locale there are several small lakes that are great fun for an occasional visit during the winter. Winter daytime temperatures rarely drop below 60⁰f, which usually lasts from three to five weeks. Outside of the short period we jokingly call “winter” temperatures range from 70 to 85⁰f. Fishing is an all-year sport.

Athel Tamarisk (Tamarix aphylla).

            So, with no snow to shovel and a warm, blue sky evoking the itchy feet of an eager traveler, my friend Ed and I plotted a loop drive of roughly two hundred miles starting in Quartzsite, Arizona. From there we head west into Californiaon Route 10 and then south on Route 78 to the tiny town of  Paloverdewhere our first stop is at Oxbow Lake. And yes, it is surrounded by Tamarisk trees. 

            Tamarisks are wonderful for campgrounds, though not advisable for backyards, unless you want your backyard to turn into something that looks like the set of “Swamp Thing.” They grow fast, sprawl out dramatically and shed like a long-haired hound. A couple accompanying photos illustrate what happens when these magnificent trees take over.

Reed closeup

            Another prominent group of plants around the lake are reeds. How do you distinguish reeds from grasses? Very simply, reeds are hollow. Or you can hike an interpretive trail looking for a sign that reads “reeds.”  

            To divert from the subject a bit, interpretive trails are often neglected, but highly recommended. Most national and state parks have them. They are a relaxing break from the normal routine plus good exercise; almost impossible to get lost on (had to say ‘almost’ because some people get lost in their own basement looking for the preserves, especially after a toot from Uncle Bobo’s shine) and really are educational.

            Back at the lake the most important thing happening is pure serenity. The campground is primitive, along the lakeshore. There are no amenities outside of what nature provides. It is a wonderful place to do absolutely nothing more than enjoy the environment and watch the wildlife.

American Coot Fulica americana

           Some Coots (called Mud hens in certain regions) are diving to the lake bottom for greens and roots while others are picking tasty tidbits off of stalks and leaves.    

            There is only one other camper. He drops in for a visit and to exchange travel yarns. Campers tend to be a friendly lot.

            An occasional visit by a Fence lizard reminds me that snakes are just coming out of hibernation in search of delicious little lizards, rodents and my toes.

            Shoes are a thing of the past for me. I have sandals, hiking boots and kayak booties, not a loafer or wing-tip in the bunch. My preference is barefoot, for which my brother scolded me after seeing a Bark scorpion, Mojave rattler and Sidewinder on my patio, all in the same day. There is a lesson in this. He thought, as many people do, that high-top leather boots keep a person safe from snake bite. No, they do not. The fangs of a rattler can penetrate almost anything you can put on your feet. When hiking in snake country the only safe thing to wear are specialized snake-proof boots or snake gaiters. The other option is a personal hover craft. Oh yeah, they have not been invented yet. Never mind.

Mittry Lake

            After Oxbow Lake we continue south and back into Arizonaat Yumawhere a remote, primitive campground skirts the shoreof MittryLakejust north of town on Avenue 7E. A mile from the lake the road turns to dirt and is rather rough at times. Mittry is another small lake surrounded by reeds, grasses, more Tamarisk, Palo Verde, Saguaro cactus, Creosote bush and lots of desert scrub. 

Great Egret

            One of my favorite shore birds, the Great egret, is plentiful here. Great and Snowy egrets are often confused. Both bodies are stark white and they have the same majestic posture. At a distance a real egret and a porcelain statue would be almost indistinguishable until one of them moved. The trick to knowing the difference between species is in the bill. A Snowy egret’s bill is black; a Great egret’s is yellow. The moniker ‘Great’ is simply due to its size, not because it has ever won a Pulitzer, Grammy or the like.

Martinez Lake

            The third lake isMartinez, which is on theArizonaside of the Colorado River, north ofYuma. After a few days in the solitude of primitive camps we decided to enjoy something a bit more civilized, Fisher’s Landing RV Resort and Campground atMartinezLake. Though we preferred the dry camp area, there is also an RV area with hookups, showers and restrooms. We were far more interested in the restaurant and bar for a good burger and cold beer.

            After checking with the local weather pros (insects and birds), dry, warm days were definitely ahead. Never underestimate the lessons Mother Nature has to teach. Animals and visible atmospheric conditions are much better sources of local weather prediction than a weather station a thousand miles away. A weather station is good for future forecasts, but if you want to know what the weather will be today, look outside. Ants will form a line and hurry home when a storm is near. Otherwise they roam around in all directions doing their daily chores. Bees make a beeline back to the hive. Birds fly low to a roosting spot. The sounds of chirping insects stop and the uneasy feeling of quietness will permeate the area. Sounds, like the chopping of an ax, will seem to carry more and be crisper when the air becomes moister because sound waves travel faster through moist air. Smoke from a campfire will rise only a few feet and then drift sideways due to the change in pressure.  It is never fun to get caught in a storm unawares.

Honey Mesquite

            Away from the marina the landscape is truly Sonoran with most of the same vegetation already encountered with the exception of a marvelous tree, the Honey mesquite. Local wildlife and Native Americans made many uses of this fine tree. It is excellent for firewood; the bark can be stripped for cordage, the needles used as …well, needles and also as barbs on hunting (small game) and fishing spears. In the photo there are clumps on the branches which are parasitic fungi, not part of the tree. Basically, the tree has athlete’s foot. It will survive.

            For me the height of the trip came at the very end, a visit by a Cooper’s hawk. He would not let me get close, yet allowed me to watch from a reasonable distance while he enjoyed a mid-afternoon snack of Ground squirrel sushi. I wonder what wine goes with that. Perhaps something from the Teppish vineyard ofRomaniawould be appropriate. Bon appetit!

Some pics on my travels

This bear photo was taken last summer on the Mogollon Rim in Arizona. He was a very polite bear and I didn’t end up going through his gastro intestinal system.

A view of the San Francisco Peaks.

Arizona is a highly volcanic state. In the San Francisco Peaks area, around Flagstaff, there are over 6 hundred volcanos. The most famous, Sunset Crater, is a 1,000 foot high ash cone only 900 years old. The highest peak is Mount Humphries at almost 13,000 feet. Shield volcanoes, cinder cones and lava fields are all present. A wonderful driving tour of this region starts from Bonito National Forest Campground at the entrance to Sunset Crater National Monument on highway 89, just north of Flagstaff.